Criss-Cut Diamonds: A Complete Guide
A Rare Expression of Light and Structure
At Appleby Jewellers, we believe a diamond should feel personal, not just in meaning, but in how it reflects light, character, and individuality.
Among the rarest and most distinctive cuts available today is the criss-cut diamond. Architectural, modern, and quietly striking, it offers an entirely different kind of brilliance A unique cut with a beautiful display of light, it is a stunning choice for a unique and mesmerising engagement ring.
This guide explores everything you need to know about criss-cut diamonds, from their unique structure to how to choose the perfect piece.
What sets Appleby apart is not just access to rare diamonds, it’s how you choose them.
A private, calm consultation setting
One-to-one guidance from experienced jewellers
The ability to view and compare stones in real light
A fully bespoke design process if desired
Each ring is then crafted in our Dublin workshop, ensuring complete control over quality and finish.
What is a Criss-Cut Diamond?
A criss-cut diamond is a diamond cut, recognised for its distinctive faceting pattern that creates a cross-hatched or “criss-cross” effect within the stone.
Unlike traditional step cuts such as emerald or Asscher, which feature long, linear facets, the criss-cut introduces intersecting facets that produce:
A soft, rhythmic brilliance
A sense of depth and movement
A refined, almost woven appearance
The result is a diamond that feels both structured and fluid, offering a contemporary interpretation of classic geometry.
More Diamond For Your Carat Weight
Crisscut diamonds are specifically designed to look significantly larger than other diamond cuts of the same carat weight, offering exceptional visual impact without added cost.
Their shape features an elongated silhouette and broader table, which increases the surface area by up to 60% compared to traditional cuts like emerald or oval.
Why Choose a Criss-Cut Diamond?
Crisscut diamonds stand out due to their increased number of precisely angled facets, which allow for superior light reflection compared to generic diamond cuts.
Traditional diamonds, such as standard emerald or cushion cuts, often have fewer facets and larger step patterns, which can limit their sparkle. In contrast, Crisscut diamonds utilize a crisscrossed faceting technique that disperses light more evenly across the surface, resulting in a visibly brighter and more radiant appearance.
The Criss Cut Facets
The criss cut diamond is expertly crafted to maximise the stone’s brilliance, scintillation and light dispersion. To achieve this unique cut, triangular facets are applied to the steps in the pavilion of the diamond. The facets continually bounce light off one another, bringing mesmerising life to the diamond. The criss cut gives new dimension to the traditional emerald and baguette-shaped stones, by maximising fire and brilliance.
The criss cut diamond is more forgiving in clarity quality, which means that diamonds of a lower clarity grading can be used, without their inclusions being emphasised by the cut of the stone.
The beauty of the criss cut diamond lies in the various step-like facets that cross each other in a crisscross fashion. The criss cut diamond is elongated in shape with trimmed corners. It typically has 77 facets that appear crisscross in the diamond and the stone tends to be shallower than princess cut or emerald cut diamonds.
A criss cut diamond, equal in weight to a diamond of another cut, would typically appear larger, as its surface area (viewed from the top) will be larger. This is because it does not carry the added weight that other diamonds such as the princess cut, have in their depth. The criss cut is a shallower diamond, so a larger carat weight will have a direct impact on the size of its surface area. The crisscross fashion of the facets is also thought to give the impression of a larger stone.
Who is the Criss-Cut Diamond for?
A criss-cut diamond is for those who want something quietly different. Not louder. Not trend-driven. Just more considered.
There is an architectural quality to a criss-cut diamond. Its intersecting facets feel intentional, structured yet soft, like something carefully composed rather than mass-produced.
Where Can You Get Criss-Cut Diamonds?
The honest answer is: you can’t get them just anywhere. Criss-cut diamonds are not a standard cut like round or oval, they are extremely limited, which means they are only available through select jewellers worldwide.
If you’re looking for a criss-cut diamond, Appleby Jewellers is one of the few places where you can view a collection in person, with expert guidance. At Appleby, they are hand-selected by gemmologists for their symmetry, light performance, and distinctive faceting.
Criss-Cut vs Emerald Cut Diamonds
| Feature | Criss-Cut Diamond | Emerald Cut Diamond |
|---|---|---|
| Faceting | Cross-hatched, layered | Long, linear step facets |
| Brilliance | Soft, diffused sparkle | Hall-of-mirrors clarity |
| Look | Textured, modern | Clean, classic |
| Rarity | Very rare | More widely available |
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